The most wonderful time of the year

Well, the holiday was wonderful. Seeing everyone was the best part. Getting to check out some really beautiful places and having new adventures was a blast too. It was so much fun to live as a tourist for a couple weeks, and get share first experiences of Africa with Jason, Jen, Tom, and Grace.

Tom and Grace got here on Monday the 12th, but since the rest of my placement parted on Friday I spent the first weekend of our vacation doing a little exploring on my own. I spent a boring night in Jinja, then caught a taxi into Kampala. I’m not a big fan of Kampala; it’s busy and dirty and kind of unpleasant. Still, I had to relish the opportunity to go to a movie theater (I saw Made of Honor, which was standard romcom cheesiness), get Japanese take-out, and have a room to myself with a private bathroom and double bed. The next morning I rolled into Entebbe, which is lovely – palm trees and nice houses and views of Lake Victoria. I checked into a hostel and spent the afternoon at the Entebbe Botanical Gardens. The entrance fees for the gardens had been hiked because there was – get this – a rally car race going on. So I had a nice stroll of the park and got to see the occasional import car fly by.

The next morning I woke up early and had the “transport officer” from the hostel give me a ride to the airport to meet up with Tom and Grace! It was kind of overwhelming to see Tom and kind of felt like I’d seen him yesterday. We spent the morning napping and waiting out the rain on the couches at the hostel, then split for the 3-hour ferry to Buggala Island.

The Ssese Islands were beautiful, relaxing, and quiet. We stayed at a campsite called Hornbill Camp that was pretty bizarre. It’s a collection of brightly-painted wooden buildings reminiscent of a hippy summer camp run by an eccentric middle-aged German couple. Tom, Grace and I pitched our tents near the beach and had a couple days full of swimming, exploring, fish dinners, stray dogs, beer and campfires before Jason and Jen joined us on Wednesday. We camped another night at Hornbill as a fivesome, then spent our last night on the islands at Panorama Lodge, which wasn’t on the waterfront but had nice self-contained cottages and a very helpful waitperson named Arnold.

Then it was off to Mbale, near the Kenyan border. Everyone piled off the ferry and into their first matatu. We stopped in Kampala to change money and get snacks and be overwhelmed for a few minutes, then rode for another four hours or so. Our taxi stopped at the rest stop where vendors swarm the car and poke bouquets of meat on a stick and drinks and fried bananas through the windows, which came as quite a surprise to sleeping Jason and Grace. We spent that night at a basic hotel in town and had some tasty Indian food.

The next morning we stopped in at the Uganda Wildlife Authority office to plan our next few days, deciding on a couple nights at Sipi Falls with a night camping on Mt. Elgon in the middle instead of a three-night summit trip, which we didn’t really have the gear for. Sipi was gorgeous. We made the Crow’s Nest our home base, which is a rustic collection of cabins set opposite a valley from the waterfalls. We hiked down to the main waterfall on our first afternoon, and were aided down the last muddy slope by a bunch of little boys that appeared out of the bushes like oompa loompas. The biggest fall is long and skinny, and really pretty to look up at from the base.

Mt. Elgon is a long and flat mountain, so hiking around seems to be just as cool as reaching the actual highest peak. We hiked in about ten miles to Tutum Cave, passing through farmland, rocky mountainside, bamboo forest, and lush jungle on our way in. The cave was loaded with bats and it was pretty creepy to shine our lights onto the ceiling and see thousands of swinging orange eyes glowing back at us. We had two rangers with guns with us, and we all had a nice bonfire before a very cold and damp night. We saw a few monkeys, a chameleon, and lots of large biting ants during the hike (Grace even saw them in her pants). It rained for a while on our way out. We took shelter at an empty primary school for a bit but ended up braving the drizzle and extreme mud when we realized that the sky was pretty solidly gray. Patrick, our helpful boy-guide, requested something waterproof and walked back inside Grace’s pack cover.

We had another night at Sipi, which featured very welcome hot showers and hot food, and then arranged a ride back to Jinja. We shared a vehicle with a guy from the Netherlands named Shuldth or something who was pretty nice. The five of us got dropped at Backpackers, the favorite SPW haunt, then went out for dinner at the lovely Ginger on the Nile. We sat under a big grass umbrella on the banks of the Nile, had cocktails, and watched some monkeys. Then it was off to the campsite at Bujagali Falls for a night of hanging out and then being kept awake all night by rats in our dorm room.

The next morning, we caught the shuttle truck back to Backpackers, where Jason, Jen, Grace and I got the prep talk for our day of Grade 5 rapids and Tom rented a mountain bike and had a day around town. Rafting was awesome! We flipped our boat in three of the rapids, and the times we didn’t turn over we were definitely on the edge. We did a lot of swimming. It was scary and exciting and fun. We relived it all on the projection screen at the campsite and then I did what I typically do when out with Grace, which was to get a bunch of free shots and act like a fool.

By then it was Thursday, and Jason and Jen left for Murchison Falls National Park (where I went over Easter) and Tom, Grace and I visited my placement, got dinner and souvenirs in Jinja, and rolled back to Entebbe to get some sleep before their early morning flight on Friday. It was rough seeing them go, but saying goodbye for 10 weeks is a lot easier than seven months.

I made the trek back to Jinja and snuck in late to the last couple days of our mid-placement training. It was pretty uneventful: sharing ideas, relearning Dance4Life (again), clarifying some policies. It was nice to see everyone and hear about people’s holidays. The other international volunteers set off to Rwanda, Kenya, Tanzania, etc. and everyone had a pretty good time with the exception of maybe Lucy and Darcy, who both fell ill with malaria during the two-week break. Lucy got the malaria meds pretty early on but spent some time in the hospital in Kenya with a secondary stomach infection. She’s back to her old self now. Darcy is still in Dubai. She had a bad reaction to quinine and was in intensive care for a few days. It sounds like she’s past the dangerous point but I think they’re still keeping an eye on her liver and making sure it’s safe for her to come back. Everyone really misses her.

After training Lucy and I got to spend a day with Jason and Jen in Kampala on their way back from their safari time. We had an awesome meal (with the first real espresso I’ve had since January) before they set off to the airport with some Texans they met up at Murchison. Lucy and I stayed in Kampala for the night and saw the new Indiana Jones movie. It was silly. We had a great time.

So now it’s back on placement, and back to work until the end of July. Returning to Magamaga was happy. There was quite a chorus of “Welcome back! You are most welcome! You are lost!” etc. the first time Lucy and I made a trip to the trading center. I’m sad that the holiday is over, but it’s nice to be home and unpack, wash my clothes, and see everyone. The student turnout is always pretty low the first week after a break, but I did a lesson on Gender at Kagoma this week and will probably have a couple classes tomorrow.

One exciting tidbit from the mid-placement workshop was that our debrief has been moved up a few days so that we’ll have a week off at the end of the program to travel. I think I’ll be headed to Rwanda with Lucy and Katie and I’m excited that I’ll get to go. We did quite a bit on the Rwandan genocide in Core 350 at Whitworth and I’d really like to visit the genocide museum and see the area, plus it’s supposed to be a really beautiful country with a lot better infrastructure than Uganda. So it’ll be a nice educational/relaxing wrap-up to the trip.

Holiday pictures

Ssese swimming

Lizard.
Me, Tom, small puppy.
Tom, large puppy.
Me, monkey.
Grace, dog. Dog.
Sunset from Hornbill Camp
Everyone's here!
Kampala frenzy

Sipi Falls
Pempe sandwich!
View from Crow's Nest
LadiesGents
Mt. Elgon area

Chameleon!
Tutum Cave, where we slept with many bats
Grace's camp shower
From inside the cave

Patrick's impromptu raincoat
Lots and lots of mud
sibs
Sunset at Bujagali Falls
Ready to raft!

Vacation has arrived!

Yay!!!

I'm in Jinja, gradually making my way to Entebbe to meet the Chappells at the airport on Monday morning. What a feeling. A visit from my favorite people and an action-packed holiday all in one... what more could a girl ask for?

Really, I can't think of anything.

It was a little sad to say goodbye to Magamaga and Lucy this morning (her 15-hour bus ride to Nairobi should have just departed), but I think the next couple weeks will be the refresher we've all been waiting for.

Let the fun begin.

Almost vacation, really

Monday, April 28^th:
Well, life’s a bit slow. The kids are out on break, so there are no SRH lessons to teach. I’d like to get going on setting up a youth resource center tomorrow, but it’s not really the same as having class time on the schedule.

The power at our house has been out for the last three nights, but Teddy got the electrician (a big fan of the “red to red, and black to black” principle) over here tonight and he got it working again. Success! I can see my food, and use my laptop!

Dennis is in Jinja for a few days, and Peter never came back from the Be A Man conference that ended last Wednesday. He’s sent me a couple text messages saying he’s sick. So Lucy and I have had the house to ourselves for a while, and it’s been pretty fun despite a little loneliness. We’ve enjoyed planning our meals, and it’s easier to cook and clean up after two, even if there are less people to help.

Today for lunch we had a “turkey egg vs. chicken egg” omelet competition. I’d say the turkey eggs won out. Lucy’s aunt and uncle had sent cheese and crackers for her birthday (awesome), and having a little emmental in there was simply delicious.

Yesterday we were startled to discover baby rats crawling out from under the door of the locked storage room. They were pretty gross – still with their eyes closed and no fur. I got them to creep back under the door and blocked up the crack with sticks. We got Paul to come around with the key this morning so we could clean out the nest, but the peeping mound of rat babies appeared to have disappeared during the night. Where have they gone? We’ll probably hear them chewing under our beds at night in a few weeks. Lucy and I had quite the struggle shooing a rat out of our room last night in the dark.

We spent last Friday night up in the Kamuli district at Hannah and Jen’s placement. They live in Nawansaso, which seems like a really great community that had a lot of SPW success last year. They have a big house – four rooms! – with electricity, and a trading center that has lots of cheap food available in the evenings. It was really fun to see them and catch up. Since I skipped out on rafting last weekend, I feel like I haven’t seen the other volunteers in a long time. Jen and Hannah's place:

Our room has smelled funny for the last couple of days, and yesterday I discovered a decaying lizard in the nonfunctioning sink at the foot of my bed. Gross. Another lizard replaced it in a matter of hours, but I got that one out of there before it croaked.

Thursday, May 1^st:
Today is Labor Day in Uganda. Apparently, the way to celebrate Labor Day is to hang around my house saying that you’re hungry. This has been the overwhelming theme of our visitors this morning.

Dennis and Peter both got back yesterday. Peter has been kicking around quitting for a good month or so and seems closer to making a decision. He said he’s going to talk to the office on Friday. I hope he stays, but I’m ready to have some resolution either way.

We had a couple guys from the SPW office here yesterday to complete a survey for NOGAMU (National Organic Agricultural Movement of Uganda) seeing if our farmers would be able to provide produce for an organic store NOGAMU wants to open in Jinja. The survey was about ten questions long, mostly yes/no, and it took about five hours to complete it with the Kalebera Farmer’s Group and then Sister Claire, who runs the women’s groups that make crafts. So that kept us busy yesterday. The SPW guys also brought a letter saying that all event proposals for June had to be in this Friday (tomorrow), so that should give us something to do today.

I knew this to some extent already, but the last few days have taught me that I am much happier when I have something productive to do. Waking up with a completely blank calendar looking me in the face is not something I like, especially when I’m in Africa and have little access to entertainment.

We have M&E (monitoring and evaluation) forms due on Friday, and I’ll probably be the one to head in to the office in Jinja. Getting off placement for the day should be pretty nice. It’s also less then two weeks until Tom and Grace get here! And then Jason and Jen! This is keeping me pretty excited despite my many hours of downtime. I think the time after the holiday is going to be good, too. There’s a lot I want to do in the last couple months, and the kids are back in school at the end of May. It should go pretty quick. Then it’s back home, and ten days later, grad school starts!

Wednesday, May 7th:
In Jinja once again. Despite being equally uneventful, the last few days have been less boring than last week. Highlights included playing with piglets, spending a night at Bujagali Falls for Darcy's birthday, spending some time with Sister Claire, and getting awesome packages from my mom and grandma. I now have a french press and Starbuck's coffee. Ahhh.

I'm at the internet cafe so I'll keep it brief. I still want to go in to the office today and possibly to a clinic since I've had a string of strange and annoying symptoms this last week. Today's new thing is feeling like there is something stuck in my throat.

TOM AND GRACE GET HERE ON MONDAY!!! That's pretty much all I'm thinking about at the moment.

Here's a little "too cool for school" moment from Dance4Life a couple weeks ago:

AIDS Day pictures

My new favorite picture ever.

marching to Buwenge

the PA truck and some honorary marchers

Kagoma Primary rocks the mic

Buweera Primary, I think? Mutai wears yellow too.

TASO drama

the shorter Father entertains the kids

Our first event!

Friday, April 18^th:
Jason’s birthday!

Today was a bit stressful, which isn’t surprising considering the massive event we’re throwing tomorrow. Lucy and I had to go in to the office to register online with our embassies in the morning, so I met with the Fathers about cooking arrangements and Teddy about borrowing school plates and saucepans before we split. We had to wait quite a while for a matatu.

We walked from town to the office, but the internet cable had been cut in half, so the embassy registration was off. There was supposed to be someone coming in to fix it at 11, which meant it may or may not happen today. I picked up my passport with plans to register at the internet café. Upon leaving the office, Lucy and I ran into other volunteers and were asked a question that made it seem like there is more gossip floating around about our placement, which has been a major problem for us at home. That was upsetting, although hopefully not a big deal.

We used the internet briefly (it was slow, so I’ll register another time), ate lunch, and tried to figure out what to do about the certificates I’d intended to print for the schools participating in the AIDS day tomorrow. They have to be on nice paper, and there were too many decisions to be made… white paper? Colored paper? Color printing? Black and white printing? Cardstock? Normal paper? We finally decided which paper to buy, but by that time the power had gone out in Jinja so there was no way to print anything. While we were in the stationery shop, we were drawn outside by lots of shouting and saw a man getting walked down the street with his pants halfway down. Another mob justice incident in the making? Who knows.

At the taxi park, the matatu slated for Buwenge was a complete rust-bucket. We opted to sit in an empty one and wait for it to fill up instead. It did fill eventually, but the driver kept driving to different spots in the taxi park and getting out an in instead of actually leaving. He finally did make some headway toward the gate, where a matatu had broken down directly in the single-lane exit. We waited for the people in the van to get out and push it out of the way.

We got home fine and the conductor didn’t give us a massively inflated fare, which was a bonus, but we hit a little goat on the way which made me sad.

Sometimes I want to say, Africa, COME ON.

We arrived home at the same time Peter got back from wherever-he’s-been-for-the-last-three-days, and it was crunch time. Peter and I tried (unsuccessfully) to borrow plates from the sub-county and from St. Gonzaga, then Peter and Wilber left for Buwenge to sort out the PA system, truck, and buy the food. Lucy and I rounded up some school kids to clean out the hall, then helped Dennis make banners for the march. The cook, plates, chairs, sodas and firewood need to happen in the morning. Here we go.

Sunday, April 20^th:
AIDS day was a success!

Ugandan events seem to be an odd mix of things totally falling through and magically coming together at the same time. This was no exception. Despite half of our schools not showing up and nearly not having a chief guest, it all seemed to work out and was well-received by the community.

We were all up by seven to begin preparations. There were chairs to be moved, a truck to track down, sodas and meat to buy, programs to print, and speaking arrangements to be made. The first schools to show up (right on time!) for the march were Mutai and Buweera, which are our two furthest schools. When a series of phone calls confirmed that the other outreach schools weren’t coming, we rounded up a bunch of kids from Kagoma and St. Gonzaga (which are within sight of our house) and lined them up to march. Peter and Wilber had already turned up on the field with the PA system in the bed of a pickup.

One particularly obnoxious teacher from St. Gonzaga complained that we didn’t have a policeman with us, so there was a long delay as Peter tried to round up an officer from the police headquarters. We never did find one but we managed to start marching anyway about an hour and a half after we had told the kids to show up. Off we went.

The truck played some lively youth-affirming pop tunes while Wilber prattled on in Lusoga over the mic, hopefully saying things had something to do with HIV/AIDS and young people. We marched up the paved road to Buwenge, through town, and then back down to the parish. It was a little hot, but thankfully not raining. The march lasted about an hour I think, but I was too busy running up and down the line trying to keep kids off the road and holding up their banners to notice the time really.

By the time we got back, the kids were in a good mood but complaining that they were tired and hungry. “There will be food!” I assured them.

After some waiting around while the PA system and generator were moved from the truck to inside, the kids, teachers, and invited guests assembled in the church hall to begin the festivities. Students led the national anthem and an opening prayer, and our LCI chairperson gave a brief, smiling welcome. Then it was on to the presentations prepared by the kids. This part was amazing! There was singing, dancing, skits, poetry, drumming, and speeches. I have no idea how the school kids pulled it all together so quickly and so well, but it was really adorable and informative too. Kagoma had the most students present and the effect of 80 or so primary kids singing their hearts out and dancing to some very enthusiastic drummers (the cheeky boys) was just… awesome. It was one of those “only in Africa” moments.

When the students finished up, we had a pleasant, if somewhat long, address by the in-charge at our health center about the AIDS-related services they provide. Then the TASO drama group got onstage and worked their magic. There was a long, extremely well-received drama (in Lusoga) that dealt with a few scenarios of HIV transmission (I think). They concluded with a song, and managed to captivate several hundred hot and hungry school kids, which is pretty impressive. Finally, Teddy thanked everyone for coming and emphasized the importance of the subject matter, and introduced our chief guest. Simon, the project coordinator from TASO, agreed to be our chief guest a week or so ago, but had forgotten the date of the event until Dennis called him during the ceremony. He made it in time and gave an excellent speech. He spoke about growing up right there at Kagoma Primary and covered a lot of material and statistics having to do with AIDS in a very reasonable time. He had to split immediately afterwards but I’m so glad he made it – I was really impressed with his talk.

Then it was finally lunchtime, which meant the invited guests got rice, meat, cabbage, potatoes and soda, the kids got fried rice, and the volunteers ran around a lot trying to get drinks and find bottle openers and make sure everyone got food. Thankfully, a few hundred plastic bowls had turned up from somewhere, so we were able to get the kids fed without a catastrophe. The women cooking did an excellent job and we had enough to go around, but none left over. I’m not quite sure what we would have done if the other four schools had shown up.

So in, the end, everyone was happy (except Mr. Kabi, who was freaking out that we didn’t have the sub-county chief speak, but whatever), Dennis and Peter did a great job introducing everyone, and all the necessary pieces managed to fall together. Georgia and Ian, SPW volunteers from other placements, came for the day and were a big help. We thanked everyone for coming, then Georgia and Lucy rushed off to the rafting campsite while the rest of us got kids to help move chairs, clean up, and return various borrowed items. Peter, Dennis and I came home, debriefed, and collapsed.

It’s hard to know the community impact of something like this; since it has to do with behavior change, we can’t really see any results right away. While we were marching, I was thinking, “Is seeing a bunch of kids with banners really going to convince people to get tested? Or be faithful? Or use condoms?” Who knows. But I do think that acting out a song or writing a poem about HIV brings it home for the kids in a much bigger way than teaching them about it in school can. It was great to hear so many of the topics we cover in our lessons – transmission, symptoms, VCT, prevention, etc. – coming back to us in the performances. It was great to see the kids teaching each other, and getting so many people in the area interested in what was happening.

I felt like we really bonded with the community too, through the planning and the event. So many people expressed their support and gratitude, and we certainly made a lot of connections through the whole thing. I think a lot more people realized who we were and what we’re here to do, and that’s a big step for us.

Now that the term’s finished and the event’s over, we have a couple weeks of slow time ahead of us. At the moment I feel pretty wiped out, but I’m hoping to find some projects to work on while we’re not teaching. I think we’ll start planning some more events for next term – but likely smaller ones!

Tuesday, April 22^nd
Today was the Ugandan Dance4Life Tour Team’s very first school visit, at our own Pilkington College Muguluka. And man, was it a long day.

Dance4Life started in 2004, and it happens in about 30 countries now (mostly in Europe and Africa). It’s a series of dance routines that go along with the D4L theme song, which is a peppy techno monstrosity. The tour teams travel to secondary schools to teach the dance and share information and personal stories about HIV, and every year before World AIDS Day (Dec 1^st) there’s a massive worldwide event, with people doing the dance together via satellite. Kind of a cool idea. It also provides about a quarter of SPW’s funding.

So Dennis and I have been teaching the Dance4Life moves at our various schools, and this was the first time since training we’d had a full-on session with the music and everything. The tour team was scheduled to start their 90-minute program at 11am, but this being Africa, they showed up at 12:35. They then spent about an hour setting up speakers and sound equipment and taping a banner to a chalkboard. This made for awkward timing, since the kids usually eat at 1pm, and had to wait for lunch until after the program.

This being their first time, the tour team was pretty choppy, and managed to teach the drill, the “freeze” portion, and then teach the drill again as it if had never happened. Weird. It was also kind of a train wreck because most of the team members clearly didn’t know the dance steps very well. Lucy, Dennis and I do, since we spent a lot of time practicing during training when our facilitators didn’t show up. Even though it went more or less okay, it was pretty frustrating to mime along while they taught the moves backward and put things on the wrong counts.

In the end, the kids had a lot of fun, and the discussion parts went pretty well. They got some pretty good video footage as the kids piped up with cheesy answers about what they had learned like, “I have learned that AIDS is a killer disease. And I have chosen to abstain [thunderous applause].”

The 90-minute program ended up taking until almost 4pm, and since cooking at home takes a good couple of hours, the three of us (Peter’s at a conference) caught a taxi to Buwenge and ate at Green Valley. They had fresh half-cakes, which are like deep-fried cornbread. Ahh.

Almost forgot! While I’m talking about food… Lucy got home from rafting yesterday afternoon (she had a blast) and we had a mini birthday celebration. I made a box of mac n’ cheese that Tom sent that was like heaven, and then Lucy opened her birthday packages from home INCLUDING a really incredible fruit cake from her Grandma. Man, was it good. It was moist and raisiny and had brandy in it and delicious marzipan icing. I have to get that recipe for when I get home.

Teddy came home as we were celebrating on the porch and gave Lucy a painting that she’d had her son do for Lucy’s birthday. It’s really nicely done, and has a bunch of abstract images in shades of gray and blue. I thought that was such a thoughtful gift, and a really cool souvenir of Africa to take home.

Speaking of home, Tom found us a house for next year that sounds perfect and adorable. It’s a two-bedroom cottage in a great neighborhood, and I’m really excited about it. I haven’t gotten any info from UNC about next year yet, but it looks like August will involve grad school orientation, a trip to Seattle, hopefully some time at the beach, and moving house. I can already tell that it’s going to be really hard for me to readjust to being back in the States, but I’m looking forward to all of those things.

Wrapping up this term

Thursday, April 10^th:
Today’s highlights:

Peter and Wilber made some serious headway on a kitchen garden in our backyard.

Dennis and I went in to the SPW office in Jinja to print a bunch of invitation letters for our AIDS day. We had a good run-around at TASO too, trying to sort out who to pay for the transport costs of their drama group.

I ran into several other international volunteers while doing some errands in Jinja. All there on business, I’m sure.

Lucy and I played soccer with ten 5-10 year olds on our field, and followed up the game with some raucous gymnastics and dancing. The kids were delighted.

That’s all.

Wednesday, April 16^th:
I felt pretty ill yesterday, and spent the whole day in bed with an upset stomach, headache, and mild fever. Today I’m feeling quite a bit better, despite having a seriously adverse reaction to dinner last night. Just a little woozy still.

The AIDS day is coming together. One of the priests suggested holding the event in the church hall instead of on the field, which will cut the cost of tents and a generator. We still have to make signs for the march and get the cooking sorted out, but I think it’s all going to be ready for Saturday.

Dennis and I are juuuuust about done teaching this term; we have one lesson at Mutai Primary left tomorrow. Next week Dance4Life is coming, and after that it’s going to be pretty uneventful around here until the vacation. We’re going to make a proposal to SPW to set up a youth resource corner this week, so that should give us something to work on while the kids are on break. As Dennis said, “If you stay around here without anything to do, you just get sick.” Agreed.

Thursday, April 17^th:
This term’s lessons are all wrapped up. Our lesson time at Mutai Primary was commandeered by a visiting NGO called Boys and Girls Brigade, so we did a quick recap of the things we had covered with them this term: HIV and AIDS, adolescence and puberty, and abstinence. In May we’ll start in with reproductive systems, and then probably get into some of the life skills-oriented material.

Dennis came down with malaria today but we’re getting some of the final preparations for Saturday sorted out. Tomorrow, we shop.

Tomorrow is Jason’s birthday! Sunday is Lucy’s birthday! Next Friday is Tom’s birthday! Lucy is rafting the Nile for her 19^th.

Lucy and I go in to Jinja tomorrow morning; the SPW office is having all of the international volunteers come in to register with their embassies. I’m not sure why we all have to converge on the computers at the office to do it, but we’re not exactly living for efficiency here.