Tuesday, March 25, 2008
Easter getaway
A hippo walked through the camp shortly after our arrival on the first night. Crazy!
We spent Saturday morning doing a game drive, and saw loads of elephants, giraffes, wildebeest, warthogs, antelopes, baboons, and a lion. The terrain was beautiful, and much different from the landscape we're used to in the eastern part of the country. I couldn't get it through my head that we were seeing the animals in their natural habitat; I really felt like we were in a zoo or a fenced-in park, and that the animals had been put there for us to witness. Pretty great.
Easter Sunday was spent doing a boat tour to the bottom of the falls, which allowed for lots of hippo and crocodile sightings. In the afternoon we drove up to the top of the falls, which was incredible. Seeing huge mammals is great, but the sheer power of the water pounding its way down the rocks was more breathtaking in a way. We spent some time swimming at a campsite a short ways up the Nile, which was short-lived and a little scary since we could see the hippos surfacing halfway across the river.
The hippos and warthogs were my favorites. The hogs hung out around the campsite, and are pretty cute despite their giant tusks and weird back mohawks.
Spending time with the other volunteers and having a real, safari-style holiday was a much-needed break from placement life. We're all a little bummed to get back to work, but it was a lovely respite and got me pretty excited to be a Ugandan tourist in May.
This computer isn't linking up to my camera, so I'll post some pics next time I'm in. The SPW staff called a mysterious meeting for all of the volunteers this afternoon, which is why I'm still in Jinja and not teaching lessons today. Our placement is having an additional meeting afterwards about the security situation in Buwenge afterwards. We expressed concern to staff person Nat on Thursday night, and I think that some security measures are going to have to be implemented or SPW might want to move us. Starting over in a new community would be a little unbearable at this point, but we might get shifted to a different trading center and stay at the same schools. I really don't want to think about moving house, but I don't like not being able to leave our house at night either.
I have moments, like this weekend, where I love Uganda and dread the thought of readjusting to American life. There are also plenty of times on placement where I wish I had an excuse to pack up and head home. I have a lot to look forward to when I get back.
I got to eat a bacon cheeseburger and chocolate this weekend! Rock on!
Thursday, March 20, 2008
No one said it would be easy
Sunday appears to be drum circle day. It’s kind of cool and kind of tiring to listen to kids going nuts on their djembes all afternoon.
I started developing some kind of weird skin irritation last night. I have little white bumps on the right side of my chin and neck, and it feels like a bad sunburn. I walked over to the health center this morning, but apparently a 24-hour schedule doesn’t apply to hours people spend in church. I’ll try again later. I have no idea what’s causing it. I’m thinking of Kelly’s experience with mystery travel skin rash and hoping it goes away soon. I feel kind of tired and dizzy too, but it is really hot today.
Kagoma Primary hosted Sports Day on Friday, and we had groups from about 15 primary schools here. The kids were lined up around the field, and different swatches of the school uniform rainbow bounced and sang depending on who was leading each race. Some of the kids had running uniforms, but most of them ran in their school clothes. All were barefoot. The boys had a 12k race – 25 laps around the field – and quite a few kids collapsed or fainted over the course of the day. It was a hot, sunny day, and I don’t think the kids had access to any water unless they brought some or trekked over to the borehole. Some of the kids have been training pretty much the whole school day for the last couple of weeks. They were pushing themselves to the limit, even though the javelins were sticks and the shot-put was an irregularly shaped rock.
Lucy and I were recruited to sit with the Kagoma kids, since Muguluka PS had “brought their mzungus” (they have four volunteers from AV, a British gap-year organization). We did get a chance to walk around and cheer for some of our outreach schools, chat with the students, and greet a few teachers we know. The weather was beautiful and it was a fun, festival-like atmosphere. There were lots of vendors selling fruit and various fried foods, which was wonderful. I got some grilled corn on the cob, a chapatti, and a few feet of sugarcane.
Later in the day, Dennis and I went in to Jinja to meet with some partner NGOs we’d like to involve in an AIDS awareness event we’re planning for April. We met with people at TASO and the AIDS Information Center and gathered a lot of information and contacts. We’ll have to go in again this week with letters outlining our plans and to arrange the details.
I love going to Jinja. It was a pretty quick stop, but I got to use the internet and buy a juice box, two things that always make me happy.
I had a relaxing Saturday back in the parish. I washed a lot of things, read, and went on a fun exploratory bike ride. Lucy and I made fried Ugandan-style spaghetti, which will be a tasty addition to our meal collection.
I’m really missing Tom lately, and feel like I could use a break. I’m not exceptionally busy, but I could really use a day where showering, cooking, and getting around weren’t major undertakings. Jason, Jen, Tom, and Grace got their tickets to visit in May, and I am really looking forward to the vacation.
This weekend most of the international volunteers are going to Murchison Falls for our four-day Easter break. It could be a bit of a disaster since we’ve arranged the whole thing on our own, but I’m pretty excited to see the park.
Dennis and I saw some beautiful marabou stork while in town on Friday, and having the kids bring by the monitor lizard last week was pretty wild. They eat chickens.
Tuesday, March 18th:
Bad times on the home front. Lucy is fighting a losing battle against the fleas that Georgia imported to her bed last week. I still have a weird rash on the back of my neck, although I went to the health center and was prescribed a cream to try out. Dennis has a fever and Peter was diagnosed with malaria this morning.
Dennis and Peter saw a little girl being raped in the parish on Saturday night. This has been really upsetting for all of us, and Lucy and I especially it seems. We talked with Tedi last night, since it was likely one of the girls at Kagoma Primary. She’s going to talk to the girls who were absent Monday, and get each class together to talk about defilement. It’s not uncommon around here, which is pretty disgusting. Little kids get lured out at night by men who promise to give them gifts or money, and some of the time they know what’s in store for them but go anyway. There are laws against defilement, but they’re loosely enforced. And sadly, Tedi said that some of the parents encourage it, since their kids get money or goods in return.
I feel pretty helpless knowing that this is going on. We’re here to be agents of change, but what are we supposed to do, erect signs that say “Don’t rape children”? It’s repulsive to me that defilement and mob justice are just “the way things work here,” and that we’re supposed to take it in stride. There are countless campaigns and NGOs and new laws, but it’s still socially acceptable to beat your kids and cheat on your wife.
It’s becoming more apparent that we’re living in an area that’s not particularly safe. If we stick around the house after dark we’re fine, but there are too many sketchy characters to venture out alone after the sun goes down. It seems so quiet in the parish, but the vodka sachets, condom wrappers, and anxious neighbors tell a different story. Peter said that one of his family members bought land in Buwenge, but the rest of the family urged him to sell it instead of building a house because “Buwenge is no place to raise children.”
I don’t want to upset anyone at home; I’m being careful and trying to make changes. I expected things like homesickness, discomfort, illness, and poverty to be part of this trip, but the recent incidences of violent crime have come as a bit of a shock.
Wednesday, March 19th:
It’s been a rough week, but I’d say things are looking up. No new crimes have come to light. My neck’s getting better, and we found Lucy some flea powder. Dennis and I have been busy planning an AIDS event for April, which we’ll propose to the SPW office tomorrow morning.
My frustrations with Uganda are waning, and I’m getting really excited about the vacation in May. Jason, Jen, Tom, and Grace will be here, and there are lots of exciting things we can do. It’s going to be a blast to be a tourist for a couple weeks.
We have this Friday-Monday off for Easter, and I’ll head into Jinja tomorrow morning. Friday morning, 13 of the international volunteers leave for Murchinson Falls National Park. We’ll be camping, hiking around the falls, going on a boat tour, and doing a game drive. I haven’t thought about it too much, but I am going to be really pumped if we see some elephants or something. Maybe I’ll get a chance to put some pictures up if we roll into town at a decent hour on Monday.
I haven’t taken any pictures for the last few days. It’s raining a lot more, which I like. It’s good for the farms and the water tanks, and I feel less guilty lounging around when it isn’t beamingly gorgeous outside. I decided to accept the offer from UNC, and Tom sent in my matriculation forms this week. I am really looking forward to being a grad student next year. I know it’ll suck sometimes, but I can’t help but feel a little twinge of nostalgia when I walk into a classroom and there are half-reactions written up on the board.
Happy Easter to all. Maybe I can hard-boil some eggs and get someone to play the egg-tap game with me.
Friday, March 14, 2008
Days in the Life
Haven’t written for a week or so. Last weekend was a blast. All of the international volunteers (minus Reet, who had a teacher’s meeting) gathered at Georgia, Carson, Iggy and Becky’s placement near Iganga. They have a huge house, a pretty yard with some unused farming structures, and a kitten. Cats are pretty rare around here, and Ugandans seem to dislike them. The kitten has turned out to be quite a nuisance, but I was really happy to get to play with it for a while. She was loaded with mites. I finally got out the five or so that had embedded themselves next to her eye, and Jack and I tried unsuccessfully to clean a few dozen more out of her ears.
This week, like the last two, has gone by very fast. The sports season has started up for our local schools, which means rampant evening activity at the field next to our house and rescheduling some afternoon lessons. Peter and Lucy have taught a couple environmental lessons in schools and met with some farmers’ groups now. One primary school class presented them with gifts, and we ended up with a box of about 35 avocados and a box of pawpaws (papayas? I’m not sure what we’d call them at home). We were very pleased.
I’m reading a book I borrowed from Carson called Race Matters, by African-American scholar and activist Cornel West. It’s interesting to read about race relations at home while living in a setting where it’s rare for me to see another white person on any given day (other than Lucy). The book was published in 1995 so it feels a little outdated; he cites a lot of examples from the LA riots and Rodney King, and the stats are a couple decades old. Still, it’s extremely well-written and thought-provoking. I’m white, heterosexual, fairly moderate, middle class, religiously inactive… living in Africa is the first time I’ve been on any sort of fringe.
Other books I’ve read since my arrival:
The Consul’s File
The Kindness of Strangers
On Beauty
Hide
The Guardian (by Nicholas Sparks; so awful it’s almost good)
The Death of Achilles
Into the Wild
Lucy’s grandparents sent a few books… I’m looking forward to borrowing them!
Peter went into the SPW office yesterday for our required monthly visit, and came home with mail for me and Lucy and a bike for our placement! Both of us received clothes and sweets from our moms, which was better than Christmas. The bike is HEAVY, large, one speed, and rickety, but I impressed the priests by riding it around this morning and I’m excited to have it.
What else? Dennis turned 19 on Monday, which would have been my Dad’s birthday too. We went to Green Valley and had fries, goat, and sodas. As they say upon parting here, Nice time.
Friday, March 7th:
Today was a bit of a taxing day, without good reason really. I think the weekdays go by so quickly that suddenly – BAM! – it’s Friday and we’re all pretty exhausted.
Sports season is in full swing, and our field was packed with soccer spectators for most of the day. This means that we have lots of “visitors” whenever we’re home and out on the porch. Some are friendly and some are trying. The kids especially are either really sweet or really annoying.
Dennis and I taught a first lesson at Buweera Primary today. The students were quiet, disciplined, and unable to understand me. We planned to cover two lessons since we had a two-hour block, but only made it through one with all of the interpreting and explaining. They had some questions about HIV prevention at the end, including, “If a condom is too big, can you tie it on with banana fiber?” This happened in Lusoga but I think Dennis answered with something to the effect of, “You’re too young for condoms, kid.”
Our lesson at Muguluka Primary was cancelled due to aforementioned sports season, which Dennis and I were fine with since it would have been another hour-long walk (in the opposite direction).
Kenneth, a soccer player that likes to come around and ask about scholarships, brought us a dozen or so eggs from his family’s farm. I made some egg fried rice which turned out really well! Any deviation from our usual repertoire of meals is a cause for excitement. Tomorrow we’re planning to try egg toast for breakfast… hold on to your hats.
Saturday, March 8th:
Another weekend. I spent the afternoon in Kamuli, an hour’s taxi ride north of where we live. Kamuli’s a nice town; it’s small and easy to navigate, but has two grocery stores, a big market, and an internet cafĂ© (which was closed this afternoon). About ten of us met up and had a good, wallet-friendly lunch, swapped stories, and did some shopping.
Georgia and Carson saw a man beaten to death in their village yesterday, and were pretty shaken up. He had stolen some chickens and the entire community had stripped him, attacked him with bricks and sticks, then left his battered body in the trading center. It was removed at some point today, but the blood and the memory of his death march past their house were still waiting for them.
We were all upset to hear what had happened, and I think a lot of us were questioning what we would have done. I’d like to think I would intervene, but realize that protesting against a violent mob isn’t a safe option. I think one of the hardest things for them was knowing that the people they teach and interact with every day had dragged their children to the scene, excited to partake in the killing. It’s an unsettling reminder that we are living in a very different world sometimes.
Our taxi home was packed with people, birds, and a goat under the backseat. Seeing the other international volunteers is always really grounding somehow. I think we all care about each other, and having a sounding board for our experiences on placement is invaluable.
Tomorrow should be a nice day, as Georgia, Katie, and Jill are going to meet us in Buwenge for lunch, and I’m planning to attend the Catholic church service in the morning. I’ve visited a lot of cathedrals but don’t think I’ve ever attended a mass. It should be nice, and I know our presence will be appreciated by the Fathers that have been so friendly to us since the day we arrived. It’ll probably be conducted in Lusoga, but I bet I’ll be able to get the gist of things.
I think the word is out that I like avocadoes – Dennis said that a group of boys from Kagoma Primary showed up while we were out to add to our collection. Fruit is a wonderful gift. We’re each going to have to eat a couple every day at the rate they are ripening. It’s the good kind of fat, right?
Today is Womens’ Day. Traditionally, this is celebrated by the men doing the cooking and cleaning. Lucy and I have been told repeatedly that there is not a designated Mens’ Day because “every day is Mens’ Day.” We figured we wouldn’t have much opportunity to observe the holiday, since Dennis does most of the cooking and cleaning around here anyway. Right now he is adding his signature spicing to my favorite home-cooked meal, BEANS, so I suppose there’s a cause for celebration after all!
It actually gets kind of chilly when it rains. It’s nice to wear long sleeves in the evening, especially with the recent influx of bugs.
Sunday, March 9th:
Lucy and I attended the Catholic church this morning, which I really enjoyed. The kids from Kagoma Primary were in charge of leading the music today, and the service was dominated by singing and dancing. There were a couple songs we do at home (This is the day…) and a lot of African ones. The songs are accompanied by a drum and something that sounds like a tambourine, and, unlike any church service at home, they are sung in a register that is comfortable for me.
The shorter Father (I still don’t know their names) led the service, and he introduced Lucy and me in English. The offering part was really cool; most of the adults came forward first to put money into the basket, and afterwards there was a long period of singing and clapping while the kids tramped down to the altar carrying sugarcane and fruit. I think there was a chicken in there too. I like the idea of offering food. It’s easier to give stuff than money, and it can go directly to meeting needs in the community.
The service was in Lusoga but there was very little sermon, really. It was mostly music and prayers. A bunch of people said they were happy to see us there and I plan to attend on the weekends we’re around.
Tom and Grace bought their plane tickets! The rest of my time here is punctuated with trips and events and I have a feeling it’s going to go by really fast.
We spent some time at home last night talking about mob justice. Dennis said it’s pretty common, as thieves typically pay off the police and go back to stealing. Since there’s no retribution with the legal system, the community takes it into their own hands. It’s terrible but not uncommon. Stealing is a major offense when people have very little they can do without. Lucy pointed out that the situation isn’t so different at home when the community finds out that someone is a pedophile, although it doesn’t go as far.
There’s a drum circle going on outside. The sound of lots of people hand drumming makes me think of smelly white people hippy-dancing at the Seattle Center. Thankfully, this one comprises about ten little boys in their Sunday best, not patchouli and dreads. I stepped outside and they started chanting in rhythm, “Mzungu! How-are-you! Mzungu! How-are-you!”
Wednesday, March 12th:
Yesterday we had a visit from Medi, one of the SPW staff members. Now that we’ve been on placement a month or so, the office is checking up on all of the volunteer groups to see how things are coming along. We had fruitless visits to the health center and sub-county office, then Medi chatted with key teachers at a couple of our schools, watched Dennis and I teach a lesson, and had individual and group chats with all of us. There were surveys to complete, records to go over, and events to plan. It was a long day.
Georgia and Carson’s placement (which had the mob justice incident last Friday) has moved locations, so they’re a 15-minute taxi ride away from us now. They left the kitten behind.
Dennis are I planning to head into Jinja tomorrow to stop by the TASO (The AIDS Support Organization) office and see if their outreach group will participate in a AIDS day we’re planning for April. I haven’t been in to Jinja in a couple weeks and I’m looking forward to some supermarket/internet time.
Last weekend was nice; I got to see a lot of the other international volunteers, but had a relaxing weekend too and didn’t spend a bunch of money by staying in town. Our stipend is pretty limiting, and I’ve had to make withdrawals from home in order to visit people, have some snack food on hand, and send the occasional text message. Our personal allowance is 45,000/= a month, which works out to about $25. Not a lot if you want to, say, meet people at a restaurant.
There seems to be less to report nowadays. Dennis and I are teaching regularly, and there aren’t too many new developments. Wilber has more or less replaced Ronald as our community volunteer, although Ronald still comes by the house to talk to the boys for some reason. I think he is trying to weasel his way back in. Peter’s been gone all week because SPW selected him to attend an AIDS conference in Kampala.
The lack of privacy is starting to drain me a little bit. I’ve gotten used to the constant attention I get while walking around town, but I haven’t been by myself in one place for more than an hour or so in the last few months. It’s like living in the dorms again, I guess. Sometimes I could kill for a fenced backyard or a real bathroom.
There’s a really ugly sheep on our walk out to Kalebera – it has a fat tail, like a stubby kangaroo. I’ve decided to touch it every time I see it, and yesterday it looked at me lovingly with its ugly little face while I patted its head, then gurgle/snarled at me as I walked away. It is my favorite.
Lucy and I battle sugar cane (Lucy's mouth started bleeding).
Dennis models backseat-driver technique on our new bike.
Proud hunters come to visit with their kill!
Saturday, March 1, 2008
Entertainment Tonight
Per request, I’ll be putting the most recent stuff at the bottom of each post. I thought it would be easier to keep the overall bottom-to-top flow going, but turns out people like to start at the top of each entry. New and improved!
We were invited to address a parents’ meeting at Kalebera Primary today. I like Kalebera a lot; the kids are excitable and friendly, and the headmaster, Aron, has been really welcoming. We showed up around noon, taught part of a lesson on HIV, and then were asked to join the meeting. The meeting was conducted in Lusoga (Dennis translated for Lucy and I) and was pretty interesting at times; the main purpose was to persuade the parents that their kids needed something to eat during their 8-5 school day. Aron told us that most of the kids weren’t getting a lunch, and that it was pretty impossible to get kids to focus when they were hungry.
It was a bit of a flashback to our training days: debate for debate’s sake. Any monetary contribution for maize seemed to be too much, and numerous other issues were brought up. There was a long tirade from one of the teachers about male dominance. One father objected to a command for better discipline at home. How was he supposed to discipline, now that caning was illegal? He said that “child rights” made discipline impossible. On and on and on. By 4:30, I understood just how hard it must be for those kids to concentrate when they haven’t eaten all day.
SPW was brought up pretty frequently, and it was decided that Lucy and I needed Ugandan names. I have been renamed Nangovi, and Lucy is now Kakuwaire. I asked Dennis if Nangovi meant goat-lover, but he said he didn’t think so.
Peter is away this week, which is a drag. His friends have coerced him into planning a massive graduation party, and it requires him being in Kampala to organize the details. He and Lucy are supposed to teach a two-hour livelihoods lesson at secondary school tomorrow morning, and now she’s going to be on her own with kids that might not understand English. Their first farmer’s meeting is scheduled for Friday, and if our newly unreliable community volunteer doesn’t show, it might be a language barrier disaster.
I hope we get to go to the party though – it’s in his home village, and it sounds like it will be quite the event.
I’d like to get a few annoying “cultural differences” off my chest:
1. Understatement. How long will the food take? Not long. (Probably hours.) How far away is it? Very close. (Miles.) It would be nice to get some concrete answers instead of being unpleasantly surprised with the truth.
2. Eagerness to point out your faults. Peter’s friend Michael marveled for several minutes the other day at how bad I was at peeling motoke.
3. Borrowing means keeping until asked for it back, even if you were using it at that moment. (Lily did a lot of this during training.)
4. Timing. I am not a fan of Africa Time. It’s hard to keep a schedule when things happen several hours after they are supposed to, and there’s a lot of sitting around waiting for people to show up.
5. Assuming that being white means being rich. Kids ask Lucy and me for money and sweets without blinking an eye. A couple boys came over the other night and one wanted to know how he could get to England. Lucy told him he’d need a visa and a plane ticket. When we declined his request for us to buy him a plane tickets, he wanted to know if he could open a bank account and have us put money in it. We told him that we didn’t have money to give and that he should look into scholarships, and he asked if we could get him sponsors from home. Dollars and pounds go a long way here, but it’s hard to get across that we don’t have buckets of cash and no clue how to spend it.
On a lighter note, one of the Fathers told us that we get monkeys here when the bananas are ripe. I am pumped for monkeys. Dennis said he grew up around lots of them, and one time they caught a baby and caged it in their house. The baby’s mother freaked out, and their house was ambushed by monkeys of all sizes. He called it “monkey solidarity.” They had to release the baby and run to avoid mass monkey attack.
And even more exciting: an acceptance letter from UNC arrived at home! Some pieces still have to come together, but it’s very likely that this’ll direct my life for the next several years. It’s an awesome program and I’m so glad it’s an option.
Thursday, February 21st:
I’m writing in a less frustrated state tonight. Dennis, Lucy and I had a nice day today; we postponed our faraway morning meeting until next week, which got Lucy off the hook for the solo teaching session. Dennis and I taught a rowdy bunch of S1 and S2 kids about HIV in the afternoon.
I’ve tried teaching some of the Dance4Life drill to a couple classes now, and Ugandan kids appear to have no rhythm whatsoever. There is no syncopation. There are only quarter notes. The phrase I’m working on is “HIV and AIDS we can beat it,” and the rhythm goes 1 2 3 4+ +2 3 4. The kids say one word per beat, regardless of whether we clap it, do call and response, do the motions along with it… curious.
Emily linked on to Tom and my Skype chat this evening, which was pretty exciting! I wish I was in NC this weekend for her visit.
Despite missing out on Masher Time, this weekend promises to be pretty fun. Peter’s party is scheduled for Saturday night, and we’ve been invited to the wedding of one of the primary school teachers on Sunday. I’m looking forward to seeing a Ugandan wedding and reception! Lucy and I were concerned about what we would wear but Dennis stepped up as helpful male by saying, “You have lots of clothes.” We have one drawerfull each.
I gave a group of primary school girls a balloon animal I made from the kit Ruta got me, and they were pretty confused. “What is it?” “A giraffe!” I don’t think they had seen balloons before. They giggled a lot and carried it around the school yard for the whole day.
Sunday, February 24th:
We ended up having to miss out on Peter’s grad party due to lack of transportation and communication (Peter couldn’t get phone reception out in the village). Alas. He’s back tonight and it sounded like the party was a huge success. He brought us back a piece of cake so all is forgiven.
Dennis, Lucy, Wilbur (Dennis’s friend) and I spent most of the day at the wedding and reception of one of the primary school teachers, Monica. It was a lot of fun. The ceremony was pretty similar to a wedding at home – same vows, same procedure – but with much more dancing and ululating. There were a lot of people in the wedding party, and the little boys in suits were pretty cute. Afterward, we walked over to the reception, which was held in tents at a primary school compound, and listened to a lot of speeches in Lusoga before having a bit of cake and a big dinner.
The meal included most of the Ugandan staples and was pretty tasty:
Chapatti, rice, spaghetti, motoke, cabbage, irish potato, beef stew, yam and pumpkin.
We had to each with our hands, as there were no utensils. I thought, Mom would hate this! I just shook the hands of about 100 people and held a baby, and now I’m licking rice off my fingers without getting to wash my hands first. Let’s hope I don’t get dysentery.
Yesterday was pretty uneventful since we didn’t go to the party, but a bunch of little kids stopped by in the evening. We played jump rope for a while, and I brought out some more balloons which were a hit as you can see:
Wednesday, February 27th:
Things are just rolling along. We have our first required visit to the SPW office in a week, and we have a ton of forms to fill out and meetings to arrange between now and then. We’ve been slow about it but it’ll happen.
Peter’s back, and he and Lucy have had a few meetings with people that have connections to farmer’s groups, out-of-school youth, and demonstration gardens. It seems like the livelihoods work is picking up. Dennis and I are still teaching 1-2 lessons a day, and they have been going well. It’s really gratifying when the kids can recite back the things we talked about the week before – sometimes I’m not sure how much is sinking in, but they seem to be getting the main bits.
We had a chat yesterday with Sister Claire, one of the four nuns that live in the parish. She’s in charge of several women’s groups (some for widows) that get together weekly to practice farming techniques and make crafts. The women showed us some of their handicrafts and they’re really cool. A lot of them string necklaces out of beads made from rolled-up strips of paper, and they weave purses and bowls and things. It seems like a really good business idea but there’s really no market here. There are a few shops that sell the necklaces but the supply seems to be much higher than the demand, and they can’t really sell them in their villages. I’m trying to figure out if there’s a way I could sell them at home and ship them. Most items cost $1-2. Ideas, anyone? I could set up something through Etsy if the shipping wasn’t too expensive, or see if I could get a store interested in buying a bunch of them.
Claire showed us around the sisters’ place, too. They have a beautiful demonstration garden, a couple cows, and pigs. Their house is immaculate and landscaped, and they have internet access. I’ll have to get some pictures of it. It’s absolutely gorgeous and it seems like such an idyllic lifestyle. The sisters are wonderful and do a lot of meaningful work all over Kagoma. I hope I get to know them better over the next few months.
The four of us had an impromptu party last night – we set out for Buwenge to get out of the house for a bit and ended up getting rolexes (an omelet wrapped in a chapatti, my favorite Ugandan snack), stopping at our favorite restaurant for fries and sodas, and watching The Life Aquatic on my laptop to commemorate the return of our power after a two-day absence. What a life.
I’m a little uncomfortable with our garbage situation here. There’s no trash pick-up, and we’ve been instructed to pile our waste at the bottom of the tree in front of our house until someone comes around to burn it. Most of our garbage is vegetable peelings and paper so it doesn’t seem like a big deal, but the kids come and root through it and take away things like empty cookie boxes. I also feel bad about burning plastic. I don’t see an alternative but I don’t really like it.
We had RAIN and hail yesterday. I put my bucket out and it filled up within a couple minutes! I love it when it rains here; the sky goes all gray and windy and everything feels exciting until it pours. I asked Dennis if we should make a run for St. Gonzaga to teach our lesson and he was like, NOOOO! I hope it’s okay that we just didn’t show up to teach yesterday?
I hear my blog has quite a following in Ilkley! Hello to the Newtons and other friends! I’m sure I’ll be planning a trip to England after I get home and hope to meet all of you at some point.
The plan is to head into Mayuge this weekend for Georgia’s birthday celebration, with a stop in Jinja on the way. Time to mail some letters! Dennis’s birthday is on Monday so I might be in for a lot of celebrating this week. I wonder if we can get a cake?
Thursday, February 28th:
The S1-S2 kids at St. Gonzaga Secondary started off our lesson by parroting back everything I said in my accent today. RUDE. Dennis and I yelled at them and they were quiet for a while, and actually had a lot of good questions about VCT (voluntary counseling and testing for HIV). They are our most difficult class; I think they are testing us at the moment to see what they can get away with.
The four of us went to a couple new schools today in Mutai, which is a ten-minute taxi ride away (probably a two hour walk). The high school was the most rural school we’ve seen yet! There’s a concrete building that serves as the office, and the “classrooms” are in a rectangular building made of sticks and boards. There are chalkboards at opposite ends, and the side of the room you face determines which class you’re in. Lucy and Peter taught their first Livelihoods lessons there while Dennis and I gave a lesson at the primary school, which was pretty big. We’ll be out there every other week, since we can’t afford to pay for transport each week.
Duke emailed and wants to interview me.
Peter caught a moth in the mouth after dinner. He did something pretty similar to Grace’s cat-sneezing impression, pinched the moth by the wings, and then with big eyes said, “Thees ees iiize eating!” This cracked me up for a long time.
Friday, February 29th:
Happy leap year! Dennis, Lucy and I went to Buweera Primary this morning, and scheduled lessons there every other Friday. This brings our school total to nine. I’m hoping we don’t stretch ourselves too thin, as we’re still meant to set up clubs, after-school activities, a youth resource center, and community events.
We took bicycle bodas out to Buweera. It felt great being on a bike again, even if I was just sitting on the back! We’re supposed to pick up a bike on Wednesday when we go to the office, and I can’t wait to start riding again (even if it is on a massive single-speed).
Lucy said that the 29th of February is traditionally the day that women are supposed to propose to men. I hadn’t heard this. British thing?
I’m looking forward to heading into Jinja tomorrow and seeing friends this weekend. The weeks are slipping by really quickly now. I can’t believe it’s been 2 out of 7 months already! It seems like I’ve been here for ages, but it feels like we are just getting going with our program.
Friday, February 15, 2008
First lessons
Teaching has been a blast. We gave a lesson on Adolescence and Puberty on Thursday to Senior 1 and 2 (age 14-16ish) students, which was a riot. The tiniest boy in the class did a great demonstration of how boys and girls' walks change during puberty, and there was lots of laughter all around. So far we've only taught one group where Dennis had to translate most of the lesson into Lusoga. It takes a lot of effort for me to speak slowly using very simple language, but it's getting easier. Explaining "immunodeficiency" to kids that barely speak English is tough sometimes.
I've tried to bring some "scenes from daily life" pictures this time. Here's the sigiri where we cook all of our meals:
And my little slice of home:
Women selling motoke at the market.
Uganda started to feel like home this week. I even had the confidence on the way into Jinja to refuse to pay the taxi conductor's inflated mzungu price, and handed him the normal change instead. He laughed and said, "You have money" to Lucy and I as a means of explanation. I got a card from Grace! Everyone seems to know who we are in our village and most people are really friendly to us. Lucy, Dennis, Peter and I are all getting along really well. Teasing Dennis about girls is always hilarious. Lucy and I get bored in the evenings sometimes, but we torture ourselves talking about food to pass the time. I haven't gotten sick yet, and now that we're teaching I'm really excited about being here.
Stubby-tailed Scorpion Muncher
Wednesday, February 13th:
And we’re off. Dennis and I have led two lessons now: a session on Values at St. Gonzaga Gonza Secondary School, and a surprise one-hour introductory session at Kalebera Primary.
In both cases, I was surprised at how attentive the kids were. Our class at St. Gonzaga was made up of about 60 senior 3 and 4 kids, which were a couple years older than we were anticipating. We discussed what values were and how they influenced behavior. We played a game where we would read a values statement and the kids had to go stand under signs that said “agree,” “disagree,” or “not sure.” It was a hit.
I was surprised at the students’ responses to some of the statements. Most of the girls agreed that “boys and girls should have equal opportunities,” but most boys disagreed. Most students (of both genders) agreed that “if a woman wears miniskirts and sexy clothes, she is asking to be raped.” And surprisingly, most boys thought boys should pay for a dinner on a date, while the girls disagreed. On sexual issues they mostly gravitated towards the conservative answers.
The kids at Kalebera Primary School were pretty insightful about some things, and totally missed the boat with others. We showed up at 2pm expecting to meet some teachers and sort out our teaching schedule, and were startled when Aron, the headmaster, gathered all 150 of the P6 and P7 kids in a classroom and told us we had an hour. We spent most of the time introducing ourselves and SPW, which the kids eagerly copied off the blackboard.
Dennis asked them to identify problems that youth face. Their answers: poor nutrition, not being immunized, poor sanitation, denial of education, family planning, defilement, poor transport, personal hygiene, famines, lack of clothing. Pretty severe, when I consider the problems I faced as an adolescent. Gossiping friends and not being able to find pants that were long enough, maybe?
I was pleased in both cases that the students could somewhat understand me, but even if I speak slowly and rephrase everything I say, they seem to have a lot of trouble with my accent. With Lucy it’s not so bad; I think they are more used to British English. There were a few cases where I asked the kids to raise their hands about something and was met with lots of blinking faces. At that point, Peter or Dennis has to step in.
It’s great being up in front of the classes. The kids are pretty excited to have us, and I think as we get to know each other the lessons are going to be a lot of fun. Per head teacher request, we are starting right in with the HIV/AIDS lessons tomorrow morning at Kagoma Primary. It might be difficult. The kids seem pretty bright but the understanding of the lesson material is much lower than what I would expect from kids at home. I suppose that’s a good reason for us to be here.
Tomorrow is Valentine’s Day. I like Valentine’s, but it’ll be a reminder that I’m far away from people I love. As Lucy said, “Last year you had lobster and a trip to Canada, and this year you have… me!” If the power goes out in the evening, as it often does, we can at least look forward to a candlelit dinner with the boys.
Tuesday, February 12th:
We’re finally getting rolling. Yesterday we met up with Ronald, the most eager and present of our community volunteers (and likely the one we’ll choose), and built a tippy-tap. I got a little frustrated because the guys seemed adamant about building it their way, but tried to let it go and make myself useful by gathering rocks, retrieving scissors, etc. Snubbing the girls during construction projects (however simple) seems to be universal, I’m afraid. Anyway, it works and will be a nice demonstration piece.
Nearly finished tippy-tap. It now has a stick attached to the string, which you step on to make the water pour out.
In the afternoon we spent a few hours walking around and, using Ronald as a translator, talking to local farmers about setting up groups and meeting with the livelihoods volunteers. We had a great chat with a primary school headmaster about 40 minutes from home, and a fun introduction to several hundred purple-clad primary kids. We’re going back there tomorrow to meet the teachers and set up our timetable space.
We also met with the head teacher at the Catholic secondary school near our house, and we’re scheduled to teach there on Tuesdays and Thursdays, for an hour at a time. Dennis and I are giving our first lesson today! We’ll have a combined group of Senior 1 and Senior 2 students (roughly 14-16 year-olds, I think), which should be somewhere around 100 kids. I’m nervous about whether or not they’ll be able to understand me. By that age most kids are being taught in English at school, but the American accent seems to be pretty difficult for them.
Still, I’m excited that we’re starting. We’ve now met with head teachers at five different schools, which seems like a manageable number if we spend a day or two per week at each one. Mr. Kabi has sort of abandoned us; he fell through with inviting the local head teachers to a mass meeting this morning, and we haven’t seen him in almost a week. It’s actually been a lot easier to make connections by just wandering onto campuses and introducing ourselves. Most of the school staff has been happy to have us, and say that the topics we’re covering are really needed in their schools. It’s good to hear, and I hope we can deliver.
My body seems to have adjusted to this lifestyle. For the first several days, I felt fat, my skin was bad, my hair was greasy, and I was hungry all the time. As enticing as that sounds, I’m glad that those problems seem to have gone away after a week or so of this routine. I’ve gotten more used to people shouting at me too.
I realized that the Ugandan kids’ reaction to white people is pretty similar to the reaction of people at home when we see a deer out a car window. It’s obligatory to say, “Hey, look a deer! Did you see the deer?” no matter how frequently they go by. ‘Round these parts, Lucy and I are the deer. “Mzungu! Mzungu! How are you? Mzungu! How are you? Bye Mzungu! Byee! Byee!” It doesn’t matter if we respond, or how many times we see them. We are a source of endless entertainment.
Sunday, February 10th:
Sundays are lazy days at our house. We slept in, listened to the worship songs drifting over from the Catholic church, and did a lot of cleaning. We’re meeting with our three potential community volunteers tomorrow morning, and wanted to have them help us build a tippy-tap (a simple hand-washing structure made with poles, a plastic container, and string). Gathering those materials should be one of our goals for the day. It’s going to be hard to have to select one person – we have three applicants, but only a stipend for one. They’re meant to help us network in the community, translate if necessary, and help with lessons. One of them, Ronald, has been showing up every couple days to express his interest. We’re never quite sure what to do with him.
I had a great time in Jinja yesterday. It’s so comforting to spend some time on the internet and find out what’s happening at home and in the lives of friends and family. I feel pretty disconnected sometimes and appreciate the emails and facebook messages. The big news on MSN was Heath Ledger’s funeral, so I assume I haven’t missed any major world events.
It’s also satisfying to go to a supermarket. I got some cookies and snacks to tide me over for those long breaks between meals, some soap, and string so I could hang up my mosquito net properly. I asked one of the workers for string, and he misunderstood. “Skin… curry?” Yes, sir. Please show me the skin curry.
Lucy and I almost got off of the matatu several miles before we were supposed to. That would have been an unpleasant walk in the dark. Apparently, giving the name of the sub-county you want isn’t specific enough.
I’m glad I have my laptop here. Thanks, Tom and Jason. I’m sure much of what I’m posting isn’t enthralling, but it’s relaxing for me to record it. Skim at your leisure.
Dennis is a delight. He gets tea and breakfast ready in the morning. He lights the sigiri for every meal (I tried once while he was gone and failed, but tried to hide it). He finds out his scores and university admission in the next month or so and wants to study public health, which is called environmental health here.
If I were to set up an NGO, I think I would try to get medical and lab equipment to rural health centers. I’m not sure what my level of involvement with development work will be after this trip. I’d like to do some shorter volunteer trips to different places, and I’d like to stay connected to Uganda in some degree.
The word from UNC is that they mailed a letter to me a couple of days ago. Fingers crossed!
Saturday, February 9, 2008
More photos
Lucy, Peter, and myself at our last day of training. Notice our extremely flattering oversize polo shirts. Thanks, SPW!
The waterfall we visited during our "social outing" a couple weekends ago.
Liz, Jen, and Jill. Three names that are easily confused by Ugandans.
This is from our first week at Kasenge -- playing football and hanging out with some kids at a school field.
My Fellow Americans. Jen, with her ever-present gymnast's smile, and Carson, with his... I think I just threw up.
Placement
The last couple days, we visited the local health center and were introduced to the classes at our nearby primary school. The kids had a great little sing-song greeting in garbled English that went something like:
Hello Madam you are welcome
This is Primary Four.
-Good afternoon children.
Good afternoon Madam.
-How are you?
We are all right
Thank you Madam.
-Will you sit down?
Thank you Madam.
Pretty cute. They laughed hysterically when Lucy and I introduced ourselves, and immediately upon our departure from the classroom.
I love the internet. I'm reading my emails, and then will attempt to put up some pictures of my new digs.
I miss everybody.
Wednesday, February 6th:
We had a productive day today, despite waking up without a plan. Lucy rallied us all into walking around the village after breakfast, and we stopped by Mr. Kabi’s place to ask if he could set up a meeting with head teachers for us. We ended being escorted to a primary and secondary school about an hour’s walk south of here by the deputy sub-county chief, Stephen.
We had great introductions in both places, and the high school head teacher especially seemed anxious for us to work at her school. They have a couple of clubs set up already that relate directly to the material we’re going to be covering. The primary school head teacher, Paul, is helping to arrange a meeting with the head teachers of all the local schools, to be held on Tuesday morning. Then we can really put the word out about what we’re doing here, and hopefully select which schools we will be working in. There are dozens in our area.
Not sure what’s in store for us between now and Tuesday, then. We’ll likely visit health centers and try to spend some time with the agricultural officer so Lucy and Peter can get started with their livelihoods material. There was mention of getting them some space to demonstrate their ARTs (appropriate rural technologies), so maybe we’ll be helping them with a little construction later this week. They’re meant to set up an example garden too, so community members can see the effects of their organic farming methods first-hand.
For some reason, I feel a lot more settled today. Peter, Dennis, Lucy and I had a really fun time making dinner together last night and talking about accents. While we walked back from our school visits this afternoon, I started to feel at home here. I still have my moments of disbelief, but life in Africa is treating me well for the time being.
Tuesday, February 5th:
I’m settling in, slowly, to life on placement. The last few days have mainly involved meeting with community members and getting the things we need for our house. We haven’t started teaching yet, but we have a meeting set up with the head of the head teachers, which will hopefully result in Dennis and me getting some timetable space and starting work in schools soon.
Our arrival in Buwenge was sobering, to say the least. We were the third group on our bus to be dropped off, and after brief goodbyes and hugs we were on our own. Mr. Kabi, our liaison of sorts, was here to unlock the doors to our place. We’re staying in half of a house owned by the nearby Catholic church.
From the outside, it looked like quite a step up from the other two volunteer accommodations we’d seen, but it was a little bit of a shock to look inside. Of the four doors off the front porch, we were let into two: one which opened to a single concrete room (where Lucy and I are staying) and one which led to two smaller connected rooms, with a tiny closet space that features the base of a broken toilet. Nice. The alarming thing was that exactly none of the items SPW requires that placement communities provide were present: no beds, no cookware, no utensils, no table and chairs, no lamp, no containers for water. The floors and walls are concrete, and it looked like our rooms hadn’t been inhabited in a long time. Very dusty, very run-down.
As politely as we could, we showed Mr. Kabi our checklist of necessary items. He assured us that everything would be fine and took off on a motorbike, presumably to look into beds. We checked out our new home. Two faucets, which didn’t work. Four power outlets, which also didn’t work. There was a hanging bulb in my and Lucy’s room that did turn on. The drainage hole in the bathroom seemed blocked. We tried to lock our things in one of the rooms, but the key broke off in the lock when I turned it.
So we sat on the porch with our luggage, and wondered what to do. We didn’t know where we could use a toilet. We hadn’t heard where to collect water. Most importantly, we didn’t have a way to contact Mr. Kabi, and weren’t convinced that he was going to come back. I thought about the next six months of my life and wanted to cry a little bit.
Luckily, Mr. Kabi showed up again on his motorbike after what seemed like several hours with two wash basins, jerricans, and a sigiri (charcoal stove). We were relieved not to have been forgotten. He assured us that the rest was on its way, and slowly but surely, things started to turn up. The priest showed up and introduced himself and told us that we would have to move, since they had another group was going to have to live in this house during our stay. Eventually they decided to leave us where we were, but he did show us the other housing option, a brick building of dorm-style rooms, and told us we could use the toilets and shower in that building. This has been a blessing. It doesn’t have running water, but we can hang my camping shower over the spigot and have a private place to bathe.
The priest (“Father,” of course) had us over for dinner the first night, which we were all thrilled with since we didn’t have the charcoal, food, or energy to prepare our own. Apparently, SPW had seemed skeptical when they came to check out our placement, and hadn’t confirmed that we were coming until a couple days prior (or the powers-that-be in Buwenge missed the memo until that point). Hence the lack of preparation.
The next couple days have run together a little bit. We’ve had several meetings with the assistant Sub-County Chief and various other community leaders, and met three potential community volunteers. We were shown the bore hole where we can collect water. It’s not a long walk (across a field and behind the primary school), but it feels like a really long way carrying 20-liter jerricans. We spent a long day getting food at the market, which Dennis and Peter luckily took charge of. Lucy and I are still pretty clueless when it comes to pricing, and it’s easy for us to get ripped off. We’ve cooked a few meals on the sigiri, which takes hours but the results have been delicious. We are still waiting on plates and utensils but the Father let us borrow some.
We are all getting along really well. Lucy is totally rolling with the punches and manages to be agreeable 100% of the time. Dennis and Peter are both quiet, considerate, and seem undaunted with taking care of the things Lucy and I haven’t figured out yet.
The biggest challenges for me right now are a nagging feeling that I’d rather be at home, and worrying about when I’m going to eat next. We’ve been eating around 9am, 1pm, and 8pm. I like to have small meals every few hours so I’m always starving and cranky by the time our food is finally ready, and we haven’t been cooking very big meals. I might try to go into Jinja next weekend and stock up on cereal and snack foods.
The “electrician” came by yesterday to attempt to remedy our problem with the outlets. After a long afternoon in the attic he decided to come back this morning (it’s 4:30pm, with no sign of him yet), but he did wire in a power strip and plugged in a light for the guys. It’s the first time I’ve been able to charge up my laptop in a while, which is why I’m having a little typing binge this afternoon.
We’re technically in the Kagoma sub-county, and the Magamaga parish. There are something like 13 government-funded primary schools in our parish, so I’m not sure how we will identify a target school yet. The parish is lovely. Our house is clustered with buildings owned by the Catholics, many of which seem empty, and a Protestant church. We’re right next to a large playing field, with a primary school behind that. Directly south of us there are houses, small farms, county offices, and a jail. If we walk about a half hour up Kamuli Road (the paved road which goes to Jinja) we hit the town center of Buwenge, which has restaurants, shops, and a pretty big market.
It’s not as rural as some placements, but it’s definitely rural. There are mud-and-stick huts with grass roofs, naked babies playing in the dirt, cows wandering everywhere. Lucy and I have all eyes on us at all times.
To make the time I’m here a little more digestible, I’ve been thinking of it as a seven-month week. I’ve made it through Monday, the day of getting started and seeing friends. Now it’s Tuesday morning. I’m a little tired, and I assume it’ll have some low points. Once I get into a routine, I’m sure the weekend will be here before I know it.
Thursday, January 31st:
Good news today!
First, we got our placement assignments. I’ll be in Buwenge, just north of Jinja, for the next sixth months. My placement group consists of myself, Lucy, Dennis, and Peter. Lucy is from the UK, has a really thick British accent, is bubbly and 18. Dennis will be teaching SRH lessons with me. He grew up in Jinja, and he’s just out of high school too. He’s pretty easy-going and I think it’ll be fun to teach with him. We did role plays last week and he expressed his love to his girlfriend by telling her, “I love you as if you were the only button on my shirt!”
I haven’t talked to Peter, and he’s been gone for a graduation ceremony this week. I think he’s about my age, and he’s from Uganda. The kids in livelihoods said he’s quiet but “comes out of his shell in a good way.” I think it’ll be a fun, relaxed placement group, and I’m excited that we’re so close to town. There might even be electricity.
Also, I had a good phone interview with UNC and am pretty excited about the program there. They haven’t sent out offers yet, but given what the Director of Graduate Studies said I think chances are pretty good that I’ll be a Tarheel next year(!).
This morning, we played that game where you walk around with a piece of paper stuck to your forehead with an identity written on it and get people to give you clues about who you are. Most of the papers had animals written on them. I sat around for a good ten minutes with “COCK” stuck to my forehead. Excellent.