Saturday, June 28, 2008

A couple week's worth

Tuesday, June 17th:
I had an on-placement weekend. On Saturday, I stopped by a fundraiser St. Gonzaga SS was holding in effort to finish off their half-completed girls’ dormitory. The Minister of Education was in attendance, so it was a pretty massive deal that the kids had spent the entire week preparing for (mostly by drumming). When I showed up there was a really excellent traditional dance group performing. They had a man with them who would climb up a bamboo pole and hop around and do positions while balancing at the top. It was pretty awesome. One of the priests told me later that he was crippled from polio and didn’t have the use of his legs.

The Minister of Education had her own special couch:


I sat through a bunch of speeches in Lusoga and tried to sneak out during the auction (of mostly livestock and food) that followed, but was called out over the microphone and made to come up in front of everyone and buy something. I got another paper necklace. It was kind of embarrassing, but I should have expected that my invitation to a fundraiser came with the expectation that I would shell out some cash.

On Sunday, I was collected for church by Sandra (a P7 student). After the service, a group of primary school girls showed up and sat on our porch at my feet silently for a while. Then they started asking me what I assumed were honest questions, like “How would you describe the climate in Uganda? What is the Southern Hemisphere?” It quickly became clear that they were quizzing me on what they were learning at school, though. “Who is the inspector of all schools in Uganda? What is a meteorologist? What do you call someone from Switzerland?” Etc. It was pretty random, and comical. Then they asked, “What is Sudan in full?”

I was confused until they answered, “Stupid Ugandans Danced At Night.” Some other gems:

Kenya: K___ (some name) Entered Nairobi Yesterday Afternoon
Uganda: Ugly Girls Are Never Deceived at All

They giggled awkwardly for a while, then suddenly announced, “Bye!” and got up and left.

Lucy and I went to Sandra’s house for lunch. Her dad chatted with us and ordered Sandra around for a couple hours while we ate matoke and beans. I feel kind of bad that Sandra invites us over and then ends up waiting on us the whole time. This is the family that lives behind the primary school and had the piglets last month. While we were eating, I kept hearing a distant mewing, and asked if they had kittens. “What?” “Do you have cats?” They did, and one of the little girls was ordered to “bring the little pussycats.” I was expecting full-on kittens but they were only two weeks old! As you can imagine Lucy and I were delighted, which the little kids found pretty amusing. Cats are pretty rare around here, and I will definitely be going back to visit them.


Sandra is a really sweet kid. She’s significantly bigger and darker than the other kids in P7, and Teddy has described her as “a bit slow.” She always comes by the house with treats for us and to chat, and I like her a lot. Today Dennis and I did a true/false game as part of a lesson on STIs (sexually transmitted infections – the new, hipper way to say STD) this morning. She was always adamant in her responses, and always wrong. She always yells at the kids to be quiet when I am trying to get the class to settle down. She is a highlight of my Magamaga experience.

After the lesson today, Lucy and I made the trip out to Buyengo to visit Jill, Katie, Lillian, and Oscar. We had a really nice time catching up, seeing their place, and having tea and lunch. They live at the base of a steep rocky hill that we walked up to get a look at the surrounding landscape. Buyengo is out in the middle of a bunch of sugarcane plantations, and it was a really beautiful view. Lily returned home partway through our visit from getting her hair plaited into an afro. It was pretty awesome. She has plans to sing “Like a Prayer” at the casino in Jinja this weekend, and entertained us for a while with her game plan and costume choice. Hopefully this is something I’ll be able to put up pictures of next weekend. Buyengo placement:

It is hard for me to tell how I am going to react to being back in the States, but I know I am going to miss the people from placement a whole lot.



Thursday, June 19th:
Busy day today. Dennis and I have been milking the STI lesson for all it’s worth, first at Mutai Primary, then at St. Gonzaga. The deputy head teachers at Mutai are great. We’ll only make it there two more times before we split, since we teach there every other week. That’s weird to think about.

Lucy and I finally took up St. Gonzaga’s insistent invitation to lunch with the teachers. There was a lot of babbling about language/questions about where we’re from, as well as the standard interrogation about our religious beliefs. We had some tasty rice and beans though, and a nice chat really. Dennis and I stuck around after lunch for a lesson while Lucy and Wilber trekked off to Kalebera for a farmer’s group (as usual, there was a burial going on so they didn’t get to meet them).

We split the STI material into two lessons: one on diseases, their symptoms, and their consequences, and one on myths and facts. The kids split into teams and take turns answering true/false statements. How well would you do?

1. A person can always tell if she or he has an STI.
2. With proper medical treatment, all STIs except HIV can be cured.
3. You cannot contract an STI by holding hands, walking, talking, or dancing with a partner.
4. It is possible to contract some STIs from kissing.
5. The most important thing you can do if you suspect you have an STI is to inform your partner.
6. Only people who have sexual contact can contract an STI.
7. Condoms are the most effective protection against the spread of STIs.
8. Abstinence is the only form of contraception that is 100% risk free.
9. Once you have gonorrhea, you cannot get it again.
10. There is no known cure for genital herpes.
11. It is women who are spreading HIV and STIs.
12. Having sex with a virgin cleans a man of HIV and cures him.
13. If you have unprotected sex with someone who has HIV you will definitely catch it.
14. STIs are a curse from God.

There are more, but you get the idea. Surprisingly, the kids often get #11 wrong.

Tomorrow July’s event proposals are due. It’s going to be a busy night as we try to sort out which activities we can feasibly hold before we leave. I’ll spend tomorrow night in Jinja (witnessing Lilly’s casino debut), then head to Kampala for Jill’s last weekend. Like Darcy, she is heading home to Canada for health reasons.



Monday, June 23rd:
I was online last weekend but forgot to bring in what I’d typed up already. So this’ll be a long blog post.

We ended up proposing six events for July: a sports day, two health center visits, tree planting, a VCT day (HIV testing), another video workshop, and a stakeholder’s day where we go over everything we’ve done in the last six months. I have a feeling I am going to feel pretty burnt out by debrief.

I had a great weekend! It was our second-to-last 3rd “weekend off,” and it ended up being full of fun activities that fell together without much planning. Friday night we went to the casino to see Lillian sing. She never did get called up to the mic but she was there in her shining mini-dress glory and we had some good food and a nice time hanging out. There was a terrible house band that was playing something like electric reggae early jazz tunes, and the whole place was just bizarre. It felt more like a church basement than a casino, with baby blue sponge-painted walls and cheesy paintings of country cottages and things. There were some odd characters hanging around. There were roulette and blackjack tables, and video slot machines that looked about the same vintage as the Pac-man game they had at my childhood dentist.

On Saturday a group of us went out to breakfast at Ozzie’s and then spent the day at the pool at the Jinja golf club. Not the cleanest or nicest pool, but a great time! It was a hot sunny day and Jack did some flips off the high dive. I busted out some basic synchro moves and missed it.

I split a little early and got a pedicure, which I severely needed and enjoyed. There’s a salon place in the little shopping arcade that has the casino, and I was pretty excited to see it on Friday night. Plus, it cost about $4.

Then we went to the campsite for the usual debauchery, and had a rough time getting a ride home. Nothing noteworthy there. Rich made friends with some dorky British guy that had some choice teenage-boy dance moves.

On Sunday, six of us rolled in to Kampala. I spent lunchtime at Café Pap drinking milkshakes and lattes and enjoying the wireless internet. Then we all went to the Sex and the City movie. It had some terrible dialogue, but it also had pretty clothes and New York and romance, which are things that I am seriously lacking out here.

Wilber just showed up and went into Dennis and Peter’s room – Peter’s mattress disappeared over the weekend! Looks like he’s officially not coming back. Not that he’s been here since April…

Five more weeks on placement. Jill should be on her way to Canada (via London) right now. Yesterday, Jen said, “If someone offered you a flight home tomorrow, would you take it?” I am really excited to come home, but I’m excited about finishing up the last few weeks too. I’m pretty comfortable with the time that’s left.



Tuesday, June 24th:
I asked Dennis last night if he was looking forward to the program being over. He smiled and said, “Yes. Very much so.” I think that’s the overwhelming consensus of the volunteers. There are a few people who are staying in Africa for a while after they’re done volunteering, but I don’t think anyone is wishing that the SPW program was just a little longer. Dennis’s sister was an SPW volunteer several years ago and said the people that year didn’t have the same desire for it to be over.

The three of us had a chat about how it’s hard being a volunteer who gives “knowledge and skills, not material goods” in these types of communities. People see volunteers and want things; they want them to fix up their school, give them seeds, fund their projects. We do leave some tangible things behind, like talking boards and kitchen gardens. We’re not here to feel appreciated but it is kind of sad that we get badgered for goods a lot of the time or that people are disappointed when we tell them we’re not here to give them money. I wish we had some training and funding for physical projects that would benefit our villages, like building latrines and painting schools. There are other groups that do those things, but since we’re here for this long it would have been fun and rewarding to do some productive hard labor. I guess you can’t expect one NGO to do it all.

It’s summertime, and things are changing at home. People are graduating, moving, marrying, splitting up. It’s strange that I am missing this year’s world and personal events.



Wednesday, June 25th:
I’ve had a killer headache all day. I taught a couple lessons (Drug Abuse at St. Gonzaga, Resisting Peer Pressure at Kalebera) and had lunch at the secondary school, but other than that I’ve been curled up in bed most of the day. It was Kenneth’s birthday today but I didn’t see him. I made him a card with magazine cutouts of his favorite celebrities: Jay-Z, Beyonce, Rhianna, and David Beckham. Hopefully I’ll get to give it to him tomorrow.

Paul, the “priest-in-training,” is finishing his residency here next week and will move to Gulu (in northern Uganda) to continue his studies. I love my daily chats with Paul on the way to the toilet and it is going to be sad to see him go. The priests are having a dinner for him next Wednesday and Dennis has suggested buying him a shirt as a parting gift.

I’ve gone back to my origami book. I finally figured out the hummingbird, but there’s a step on the praying mantis that I just can’t get.



Saturday, June 28th:
Yesterday was sure busy for not accomplishing much. I walked to Buweera and Muguluka, but lessons were cancelled at both primary schools due to district sports days.

Wilber and Dennis led our first Be A Man video workshop. Lucy and I showed up in the middle since we had been walking to Muguluka and back for the cancelled lesson. It was all in Lusoga and I couldn’t actually see the video from where I was sitting, but there seemed to be some good discussion going on about gender equity and things. I think we’re having a couple more in the next few weeks.

I was pretty frustrated with people shouting obscenities and trying to guilt-trip me into buying baby toys yesterday, but today’s trip in to Jinja has me looking up a bit. There’s no better pick-me-up than a milkshake and the internet.

I just looked down at the quarter of the piece of bread I had left and noticed it was crawling with ants. I think I just ate about 100 ants for breakfast.

This little lady is nowhere near as ugly as the ugly sheep, but here’s an image of the African sheep, dreads, tail and all:

Friday, June 20, 2008

Oops

I wrote up some stuff but put the wrong file on my USB drive! Here are a couple of classroom shots for the time being...


Tuesday, June 10, 2008

Group fun

Monday, June 9th:
Happy Hero’s Day. The schools have the day off, so I’m at home taking care of some things I would have done this weekend had I been around. I really like being on placement lately.

Last weekend involved a lot of socializing and going out to eat. We had a going-away get-together for Darcy on Saturday at the campsite. It’s really sad to see her go but we had a fun time partying as a group. The first half of Saturday was frustrating; I spent a long time in the internet café watching my connection go out every time I had almost loaded something, and being caught in the middle of conversations between the new batch of AVs in town. If anyone doing Africa Venture reads this, or if your little sister is in it or something, I’m sorry. But they are terrible. AV is a gap-year company that sends rich British 18-year-olds into Uganda to terrorize Jinja in beachwear and annoy everyone. As far as I can tell, anyway. They also work in schools so they get compared to SPW a lot, which we all enjoy. It was a rainy and crappy afternoon, but by the time we got to the campsite everyone was ready to have a good time and we had a really fun last night with Darce.

On Sunday a bunch of us went to the Lubani placement, where Jack had organized a community football tournament. It was pretty impressive! Sixteen teams had signed up, including one made up of SPW volunteers. I didn’t stay until the finals but did have a really good time seeing the games, people-watching, and listening to impromptu karaoke over the PA system. It was Jack’s birthday and he had bought a goat for us to feast on in the evening – it was delicious! Thanks Jack! The prize for the winning team was also a goat.

We’re within two months now. Time’s ticking.

Also: if anyone is planning to send post while I’m out here, try to do it in the next week or so – some things take about six weeks to get out here, and I won’t be getting things from the office the last week I’m here.

It’s back to the office tomorrow. I think we have been averaging two trips a week since mid-placement training. Dance4Life is coming to two more of our schools this Thursday, so I have to pick up some materials for that and – fingers crossed – actually get the money for our proposals that have been lost three times now. Lucy and Wilber have a model farm visit with the women’s group tomorrow. It should be a hit!

We’ll miss you, Darcy!


SPW All-stars in action:

Tuesday, June 10th:

The kids all laughed at me in our lesson this morning because I coughed while listing STDs. Punks.

I'm back at the office... will today be the magical day we get our event money? Nobody knows...

Saturday, June 7, 2008

Boring stuff

Wednesday, June 4th:
We’re back to teaching now. Last term our most of the lessons with the primary kids were on HIV/AIDS, puberty, and reproductive systems. This term we’ll probably spend most of the time on drug abuse, STIs, and gender. We can do more of the life skills topics like relationships and decision-making with the secondary kids, but the young ones seem to have a lot of trouble grasping those lessons.

There’s some sad news around Magamaga this week. First, the daughter of one of our parishioners was killed by a car as she was crossing our paved road on Sunday. She was five months pregnant. Thankfully Lucy, Dennis and I weren’t around when it happened – I wouldn’t have wanted to be there for the accident scene. Kagoma Primary lost a P4 student to tetanus on Monday. She had missed the school vaccination day a few weeks ago.

And, less drastically but closer to home, Darcy is leaving Uganda this weekend. Since her antimalarials don’t seem to work and she reacts badly to quinine, it’s not safe for her to be here and she’s going back to Canada. She made it back from Dubai for a week to say goodbye. We are all really going to miss her.

On a happier note, Dennis and I had a good lesson at Kalebera this afternoon and our proposals have been approved, so Lucy’s women’s group will be having a model farm visit and we’ll be setting up a youth resource center, hosting two video workshops, and making talking boards at Kagoma as a group this month.

Lucy and I just had a nice training session on the field with Kenneth. Just two months to shed this African tummy before I get home!


Friday, June 6th:
Shockingly little to report this week. Dennis and I had a really good lesson at Muguluka Primary this afternoon, on abstinence and drug abuse. We did a “myth or fact” game with the P6 kids (Coffee, tea and sodas contain drugs. Alcoholism is a disease. Smoking will hurt a pregnant woman, but not her baby. Etc.) which the kids were massively competitive about.

Lucy went in to the office today, but they didn’t have our proposal money for some reason. So there will likely be another trip to Jinja in the near future.

This weekend should be fun. We’re having a last night with Darcy at the campsite on Saturday, and Jack’s having a birthday party at his placement on Sunday. Those of us leaving on the first flight have two months left now. I’m excited about going home. Every time I look around I think of people and things that I am really going to miss, but home is home. The prospect of a beach trip the week after I get back has got me pretty revved up.

Some dancing flower girls from a wedding last weekend:

Sunday, June 1, 2008

Kitchen gardens

One of the practical lessons that our livelihoods volunteers teach is how to make a kitchen garden. It’s a dirt mound with a cylindrical space in the middle to put your food waste; the food decomposes and fertilizes whatever you plant in the dirt surrounding it. Nice, huh?

Man, stuff grows here! Here’s our personal kitchen garden under construction about a month ago:

When we left for the holiday, the dirt was piled up but we hadn’t planted anything yet. Come back two weeks later, and here’s what you find:


Massive plants! That we didn’t even plant! And better yet, it’s dodo, an edible fibery green that Dennis happens to be pretty good at cooking up. I love it.

Lucy and Wilber started a kitchen garden with their Kalebera farmers’ group before our break, and when we went back today they had not only finished building it, but had been using it for their kitchen waste. This is the same group that was generally rude and took any excuse not to turn up for meetings just a few months ago. Now they’re friendly and seem to be taking the lessons to heart. A little SPW success story.


The kids were around too, of course, and they wanted to make sure the baby’s head was turned my way for a picture. Poor baby.

The most wonderful time of the year

Well, the holiday was wonderful. Seeing everyone was the best part. Getting to check out some really beautiful places and having new adventures was a blast too. It was so much fun to live as a tourist for a couple weeks, and get share first experiences of Africa with Jason, Jen, Tom, and Grace.

Tom and Grace got here on Monday the 12th, but since the rest of my placement parted on Friday I spent the first weekend of our vacation doing a little exploring on my own. I spent a boring night in Jinja, then caught a taxi into Kampala. I’m not a big fan of Kampala; it’s busy and dirty and kind of unpleasant. Still, I had to relish the opportunity to go to a movie theater (I saw Made of Honor, which was standard romcom cheesiness), get Japanese take-out, and have a room to myself with a private bathroom and double bed. The next morning I rolled into Entebbe, which is lovely – palm trees and nice houses and views of Lake Victoria. I checked into a hostel and spent the afternoon at the Entebbe Botanical Gardens. The entrance fees for the gardens had been hiked because there was – get this – a rally car race going on. So I had a nice stroll of the park and got to see the occasional import car fly by.

The next morning I woke up early and had the “transport officer” from the hostel give me a ride to the airport to meet up with Tom and Grace! It was kind of overwhelming to see Tom and kind of felt like I’d seen him yesterday. We spent the morning napping and waiting out the rain on the couches at the hostel, then split for the 3-hour ferry to Buggala Island.

The Ssese Islands were beautiful, relaxing, and quiet. We stayed at a campsite called Hornbill Camp that was pretty bizarre. It’s a collection of brightly-painted wooden buildings reminiscent of a hippy summer camp run by an eccentric middle-aged German couple. Tom, Grace and I pitched our tents near the beach and had a couple days full of swimming, exploring, fish dinners, stray dogs, beer and campfires before Jason and Jen joined us on Wednesday. We camped another night at Hornbill as a fivesome, then spent our last night on the islands at Panorama Lodge, which wasn’t on the waterfront but had nice self-contained cottages and a very helpful waitperson named Arnold.

Then it was off to Mbale, near the Kenyan border. Everyone piled off the ferry and into their first matatu. We stopped in Kampala to change money and get snacks and be overwhelmed for a few minutes, then rode for another four hours or so. Our taxi stopped at the rest stop where vendors swarm the car and poke bouquets of meat on a stick and drinks and fried bananas through the windows, which came as quite a surprise to sleeping Jason and Grace. We spent that night at a basic hotel in town and had some tasty Indian food.

The next morning we stopped in at the Uganda Wildlife Authority office to plan our next few days, deciding on a couple nights at Sipi Falls with a night camping on Mt. Elgon in the middle instead of a three-night summit trip, which we didn’t really have the gear for. Sipi was gorgeous. We made the Crow’s Nest our home base, which is a rustic collection of cabins set opposite a valley from the waterfalls. We hiked down to the main waterfall on our first afternoon, and were aided down the last muddy slope by a bunch of little boys that appeared out of the bushes like oompa loompas. The biggest fall is long and skinny, and really pretty to look up at from the base.

Mt. Elgon is a long and flat mountain, so hiking around seems to be just as cool as reaching the actual highest peak. We hiked in about ten miles to Tutum Cave, passing through farmland, rocky mountainside, bamboo forest, and lush jungle on our way in. The cave was loaded with bats and it was pretty creepy to shine our lights onto the ceiling and see thousands of swinging orange eyes glowing back at us. We had two rangers with guns with us, and we all had a nice bonfire before a very cold and damp night. We saw a few monkeys, a chameleon, and lots of large biting ants during the hike (Grace even saw them in her pants). It rained for a while on our way out. We took shelter at an empty primary school for a bit but ended up braving the drizzle and extreme mud when we realized that the sky was pretty solidly gray. Patrick, our helpful boy-guide, requested something waterproof and walked back inside Grace’s pack cover.

We had another night at Sipi, which featured very welcome hot showers and hot food, and then arranged a ride back to Jinja. We shared a vehicle with a guy from the Netherlands named Shuldth or something who was pretty nice. The five of us got dropped at Backpackers, the favorite SPW haunt, then went out for dinner at the lovely Ginger on the Nile. We sat under a big grass umbrella on the banks of the Nile, had cocktails, and watched some monkeys. Then it was off to the campsite at Bujagali Falls for a night of hanging out and then being kept awake all night by rats in our dorm room.

The next morning, we caught the shuttle truck back to Backpackers, where Jason, Jen, Grace and I got the prep talk for our day of Grade 5 rapids and Tom rented a mountain bike and had a day around town. Rafting was awesome! We flipped our boat in three of the rapids, and the times we didn’t turn over we were definitely on the edge. We did a lot of swimming. It was scary and exciting and fun. We relived it all on the projection screen at the campsite and then I did what I typically do when out with Grace, which was to get a bunch of free shots and act like a fool.

By then it was Thursday, and Jason and Jen left for Murchison Falls National Park (where I went over Easter) and Tom, Grace and I visited my placement, got dinner and souvenirs in Jinja, and rolled back to Entebbe to get some sleep before their early morning flight on Friday. It was rough seeing them go, but saying goodbye for 10 weeks is a lot easier than seven months.

I made the trek back to Jinja and snuck in late to the last couple days of our mid-placement training. It was pretty uneventful: sharing ideas, relearning Dance4Life (again), clarifying some policies. It was nice to see everyone and hear about people’s holidays. The other international volunteers set off to Rwanda, Kenya, Tanzania, etc. and everyone had a pretty good time with the exception of maybe Lucy and Darcy, who both fell ill with malaria during the two-week break. Lucy got the malaria meds pretty early on but spent some time in the hospital in Kenya with a secondary stomach infection. She’s back to her old self now. Darcy is still in Dubai. She had a bad reaction to quinine and was in intensive care for a few days. It sounds like she’s past the dangerous point but I think they’re still keeping an eye on her liver and making sure it’s safe for her to come back. Everyone really misses her.

After training Lucy and I got to spend a day with Jason and Jen in Kampala on their way back from their safari time. We had an awesome meal (with the first real espresso I’ve had since January) before they set off to the airport with some Texans they met up at Murchison. Lucy and I stayed in Kampala for the night and saw the new Indiana Jones movie. It was silly. We had a great time.

So now it’s back on placement, and back to work until the end of July. Returning to Magamaga was happy. There was quite a chorus of “Welcome back! You are most welcome! You are lost!” etc. the first time Lucy and I made a trip to the trading center. I’m sad that the holiday is over, but it’s nice to be home and unpack, wash my clothes, and see everyone. The student turnout is always pretty low the first week after a break, but I did a lesson on Gender at Kagoma this week and will probably have a couple classes tomorrow.

One exciting tidbit from the mid-placement workshop was that our debrief has been moved up a few days so that we’ll have a week off at the end of the program to travel. I think I’ll be headed to Rwanda with Lucy and Katie and I’m excited that I’ll get to go. We did quite a bit on the Rwandan genocide in Core 350 at Whitworth and I’d really like to visit the genocide museum and see the area, plus it’s supposed to be a really beautiful country with a lot better infrastructure than Uganda. So it’ll be a nice educational/relaxing wrap-up to the trip.

Holiday pictures

Ssese swimming

Lizard.
Me, Tom, small puppy.
Tom, large puppy.
Me, monkey.
Grace, dog. Dog.
Sunset from Hornbill Camp
Everyone's here!
Kampala frenzy
Sipi Falls
Pempe sandwich!
View from Crow's Nest
LadiesGents
Mt. Elgon area

Chameleon!
Tutum Cave, where we slept with many bats
Grace's camp shower
From inside the cave

Patrick's impromptu raincoat
Lots and lots of mud
sibs
Sunset at Bujagali Falls
Ready to raft!